Fuji Discovery 312 Point and Shoot
I could probably review old point and shoot cameras forever. Local thrift stores sell them for less than $5 each. Canon, Minolta, Konica, Pentax, Olympus, Ricoh, Argus.... You name it, you can find it cheap. I recently found a Fuji Discovery 312 with an EBC Fujinon lens and bought it for $1.99. I'm a big fan of EBC Fujinon lenses based on some shooting with a Fujica SLR+EBC Fujinon lens. While I can't be sure that a Fujinon in a point and shoot is the same as a Fujinon for an SLR, I was hopeful nonetheless.
The build of the Fuji 312 is nothing special. In fact, it's kind of bulky and cumbersome. Handling while shooting is nothing special. There's a significant delay from pushing the shutter release button to the time that the shutter is actually released. I wouldn't use this camera for action shots. The zoom control is fairly slow and startup/shutdown is leisurely as well. As far as tech specs go, the 312 is fairly underpowered. The top shutter speed is 1/250s and there's no exposure compensation. The zoom is decent, ranging from 38mm to 120mm.
Now, let's get down to the most important features. Image quality and exposure accuracy. I've got to hand it to Fuji, they did a great job with the lens and exposure meter. I shot a roll in overcast snowy conditions and the Fuji 312 did a great job in not being fooled by the white snow. In addition, the images were sharp and showed good detail. You would have a difficult time distinguishing the photos from this camera from photos taken with an SLR. My next photo test consisted of a few indoor flash shots. Again, the Fuji 312 did a nice job of not over-exposing and giving as natural a look as possible with an on-camera flash. I give the Discovery 312 very high marks in image quality. It's too bad Fuji didn't surround the lens with a better body.
Here are a couple of sample photos using ordinary Kodak Gold 200 processed at Walgreens.
Digital Point and Shoot Versus Film Point and Shoot (Part 1)
Introduction
The purpose of this article is to discuss the relative merits of digital and film point and shoot cameras to help you decide when one or the other is appropriate to your needs. Both photographic mediums have strengths and weaknesses. I think it's a good idea to lay them out and look at them with an eye toward practical use by normal family photographers. In the end I would like to find out if there is any noticeable difference in photos between digital and film when the cameras are used in a similar way.
The Contenders
First, let's meet the contestants. I'll be evaluating several cameras.
- Canon A560 -- The Canon A560 digital point and shoot is a well regarded budget digital. It lacks image stabilization, but overall is good choice for those who want a good camera without breaking the bank.
- Fuji F20 -- What the Fuji F20 doesn't deliver in megapixels (6Mp), it delivers in great image quality; especially when compared to comparable cameras at higher ISOs.
- HP 720 -- This camera was not especially fast or feature filled, but it did a good job for an early digital point and shoot. It is included for comparison just to see how a 3.1Mp camera will fare compared to its modern cousins.
- Pentax IQZoom 90WR -- The 90WR distinguishes itself from the other cameras with built-in weatherproofing. It can withstand rain and snow as well as a short dunk in the water.
- Canon Sure Shot Classic 120 -- The Sure Shot Classic 120 was considered at the top end of the Sure Shot Series. It has a number of features useful to the advanced amateur such as a custom setting to remember preferred settings.
- Olympus Stylus Epic (mjuii) -- The Stylus Epic is widely regarded for producing sharp photographs. The main drawback compared to the other cameras is lack of a zoom lens. It also lags a bit in the number of available scene selections, but that's not a big deal. I thought it would be interesting to include this camera although I'll probably step back or get closer to the subject when possible to produce comparable photographs.
With the exception of the Olympus (which has a fixed focal length lens), all of the cameras feature zoom lenses, scene selection, and flash. In their day, each of these cameras was considered a good quality camera for general use by casual photographers.
Methodology
As much as possible I'll try to use the cameras as most casual photographers will use them. I'll also point out situations when a feature of a camera might be used but typically isn't. A feature that comes to mind is custom white balance available on most digitals. I will carry all of the digital cameras and one of the film cameras for each round of testing. I will photograph the same subject with each of the cameras in turn. There will be several rounds of testing with a different film camera used in each round. Why am I using just one film camera per round? Cost. Which is one of the disadvantages of digital if you want to conduct tests such as this one.
Scenarios
- Scenic sunny
- Scenic sunset
- Action
- Macro
- Indoor flash
- Indoor no flash
- Portrait
- Water or beach scene
- Backlit
- Dark Subject
- Light Subject
- Cloudy
One advantage for digitals in all of the above scenarios is that you get a preview of your results on the LCD. If the photo is blurry, improperly exposed, or framed improperly you get immediate feedback and can take another photo. From what I've seen, casual photographers will often re-take a photo if it is framed improperly such as group shot or sports shot, but will less often re-take a shot if the exposure is slightly off or the subject is slightly blurry. In fact, slight blurriness is difficult to see with a normal LCD on a point and shoot. My usage scenario will be to take the photo and not look back unless there was some gross mistake. I'll try to keep the attitude and behavior of a casual photographer.
Film Selection
I had to think about this one for a bit. A typical point and shoot photographer will not normally use pro films from Kodak and Fuji. However, pro films can be used with great success in a point and shoot. In the end I decided to use one pro film for reference purposes. Consumer film will be used for most scenarios.
- Fuji Superia Xtra 200
- Kodak UltraMax 400
- Kodak Portra 400VC
- Kodak UltraMax 800
ISO
Digital has the advantage of being able to use a number of different ISO settings. A casual photographer will not change the ISO unless it is automatic. Because ISO is a conscious decision for the film photographer, it is more likely that casual photographers will pick a film suitable for their usage scenario. I will therefore use several different film speeds in my evaluation. Given the number of film cameras and film speeds, I would have to burn a lot of film. I will therefore have an ISO test for one round where I will use ISO800 film and all digitals will be set to ISO800 if possible.
Printing and Scanning
All film will be scanned and printed at Costco. Costco offers good quality 6Mp scans for very little money. All digital photos will be printed at Costco as well. I'll let Costco print at default settings for both film and digital to replicate the typical consumer experience.
Enlargements
Certain photos will be selected for enlargement to 8x10. The photos will be compared for quality.
Getting Started
I plan to start testing Saturday, May 24th using all of the digital cameras and the Pentax IQZoom 90WR load with either Fuji 200 or Kodak UltraMax 400 film. I plan to publish results by the following Saturday, May 31st.
Canon Sure Shot Classic 120
Cool stuff. The local thrift store had a Canon Sure Shot Classic 120 on sale for $7. I bought it, picked up some batteries (which cost more than the camera) and shot a roll while fishing with my son. My first impressions are that the Classic 120 is a *very* nice point and shoot. One especially nice feature is the custom feature. You can set the camera to any custom setting while the "best shot" dial is set to custom, and it will remember the settings the next time you use the camera. This is a great feature, although I'll probably use it most for suppressing the flash. The camera has a sort of program mode to recognize common photo scenarios. It also features a 3-point auto-focus system that is both active and passive. I had only one out of focus shot, so it seems to work well. The only drawback to the camera that I can see is its relatively slow zoom lens. It ranges from f4.5 - f10.9 at 38-120mm. I would have preferred a slightly faster lens ranging from 28mm to 100mm or so. The maximum f4.5 aperture makes for better depth of field for focusing purposes I suppose, but it nearly forces you into using ISO400 film or better. Flash mode on the Classic 120 is excellent. It's the only point and shoot I've tried so far that doesn't look horrible. The flash is softer somehow and doesn't result in white faces on Caucasian subjects. This is a definite plus.
Leica Z2X versus Konica Auto S2
In the previous installment of my point and shoot shootout, the Leica Z2X proved to be the equal or better of the Yashica T4. This was surprising considering the fixed lens of the T4 and its stellar reputation. Although my Konica Auto S2 is not a point and shoot camera, I thought it would be fun to compare the Z2X to the S2's very sharp and fast lens. Following the same format as the other shootouts, I loaded each camera with Walgreens Studio 35 (Generic Fuji 400) film and shot each scene twice, once with each camera. I zoomed the Z2X to approximately the same focal length as the Auto S2 to make the comparison equal. The meter on my S2 is broken so I used sunny 16 rules to set the shutter and aperture. The result? It was really difficult to distinguish 5x7 photos between the two cameras. The S2 might have a slight edge in resolving detailof distant objects; it was difficult to be conclusive. The next step might be to enlarge a couple of photos to 8x10 or better. One thing that was apparent was that manual metering on the S2 turned out better exposed photos than the automatic metering of the Z2X. Most of the Z2X photos were well exposed, but occasionally the meter was fooled by a stop or two. The other thing I noticed was that theZ2X had little bit of flare on a couple of photos, while the built-in lens hood of the Auto S2 eliminated flair in any of the photos.
Stylus Epic versus Yashica T4 Super versus Leica Z2X
Point and shoot film cameras have been a bit of an obsession of mine in the past year. I don't know why. Maybe it's the fact that old point and shoots are cheap. Regardless, I've been conducting subjective side by side tests of various point and shoot cameras. The first two I tested were a Yashica T4 Super and and a Stylus Epic. My conclusion was that both were very, very similar in performance in terms of sharpness, contrast, and exposure. The handling of each was different, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. I'd call it a toss-up. The next comparison was between the T4 and a Leica Z2X. I suppose most Leica people would have doubts about accepting a Z2X as "real" Leica. However, it supposedly has a real Leica lens. The test was conducted similarly to the test of the T4 and Stylus Epic. My wife and I visited Frink Park in the Leschi area of Seattle. It was a rainy but fairly bright overcast day. I took a couple of flash shots, a few shots in the shadows, and a couple of shots when the sun briefly broke through the clouds. I kept the zoom on the Z2X at 35mm in order to have a fair comparison with the 35mm fixed lens on the T4. The film used was Kodak 400UC. I had both rolls of film developed and printed on the local Walgreens Frontier system on cheap 5x7 Kodak paper. The results were very interesting. I expected the Z2X to be a little softer in terms of sharpness, but I couldn't see any difference. For some photos the Z2X won, for others the T4 had the edge. But I should emphasize that the results were very close and the differences could easily be attributed to slight differences in camera shake. I'm a little bit surprised that the Z2X was as good as the fixed lens on the T4. Maybe if I enlarged to 8x10 there would be a noticeable difference. As it is, I can't see any significant difference in lens performance. In terms of ease of shooting, the T4 is smaller and has the top viewer feature. On the other hand, the Z2X has a zoom which is helpful. I could see carrying both of these with two different films. Based on the results of this test, I might end up carrying around the Z2X more often due to the flexibility of having a zoom lens.
More thoughts on the Stylus Epic
I shot a roll of Fuji 200 today with my Epic. What a huge difference in quality compared to the 400 speed films I previously tried (Kodak HD400 and Fuji 400H). I can't explain why the cheap 200 speed film would turn out *much* better 5x7 prints compared to the 400 speed film. Perhaps the ISO 200 negatives scan better on my local Walgreen's Frontier system? It doesn't make sense to me that 1 stop difference in film speed would make such a noticeable difference. To test things, I ordered some 5x7 reprints of photos from my Fuji 400H roll from Costco which uses a Noritsu system rather than a Fuji Frontier system. I'll have the results
tomorrow. Walgreens uses cheap Kodak paper while Costco uses cheap glossy Fuji Crystal Archive paper. At least I'll have two sets of prints from different scanning and printing systems to compare. For now, the magic film for my nearest Walgreens is their generic Studio 35 (Fuji 200) film.
Point and shoot cameras
I just finished a roll of Fuji 400H with my Stylus Epic. Overall, I was generally pleased with the results, but it's definitely true that 400H isn't as vivid as other films. This is great for portraits and bright conditions, not as great for overcast dull days or scenics where you want the color a little more punchy. The grain is decent for a 400 speed film. I somewhat prefer it to Kodak 400HD. The Epic has a slightly larger maximum aperture of f2.8 versus the Yashica T4's f3.5. While that isn't much, it does make a difference for close-up shots, especially with the less precise focus controls of point and shoot autofocusing. The problem is that the Epic favors a wide open aperture and fast shutter speed and starts to stop down the aperture only in very bright conditions. This means that closeup shots of flowers and such can suffer because getting the focus exactly right can be difficult and the depth of field is shallow. As much as I previously thought that having a large maximum aperture in a point and shoot would be an ad
vantage, it can be a drawback as well. This discovery makes me want to shoot with a Canon Sure Shot Classic 120, which reportedly has a very sharp zoom lens and starts at f4 or f4.5. In the end, a slower lens might actually be an advantage for a point shoot camera.
Yashica T4 and Olympus Stylus Epic
The Yashica T4 and Olympus Stylus Epic (fixed lens) are widely regarded as top notch point and shoot 35mm film cameras. Recently I acquired them for $5 each. Once again, the thrift store gods were smiling. As with all automatic point and shoot cameras, the tradeoffs are less precise control of exposure and focus while gaining speed and convenience of shooting. The T4 has some sort of backlight detection, but I haven't tested its effectiveness. The Epic instruction manual doesn't explicitly refer to a backlight compensation system, but explains that there is a two zone metering system. Perhaps the two zone system accounts for some backlight situations. The Epic also contains a spot metering/focusing mode allowing you to precisely meter and focus on a particular point. Both cameras feature focus and exposure locking by depressing the shutter release button half-way.
My first test roll of film in each camera was Kodak 400HD film that was within a year of expiration, so it should have been good to go unless it had been exposed to extreme heat. My methodology was meant to be more subjective than objective. I carried both cameras with me and took the same picture with each. I was able to get a general impression of the experience of shooting with each camera. The focus and exposure lock of the T4 was very sensitive. I often found myself accidentally shooting when attempting to lock. The Epic was easier and more predictable in this respect. The results of my first test were not good on both cameras.
The photos were somewhat sharp but lacked punch and the shadows were speckled with noise and grain. Because I used the same lot of film which was developed at the same photo lab, I suspected that either the film was bad or I received poor development. I scanned the negatives and found the them to be of noisy and poor quality. I'll probably never know if the film or development was bad. Both cameras produced photos nearly identical in quality. The Epic's flash was a little brighter, while the T4's depth of field was slighter deeper due to the max aperture of f3.5 versus the Epic's f2.8. Otherwise, it would be very difficult to distinguish between the photos produced by each camera. I was disappointed, but I decided to shoot another roll with Fuji 200 speed film which I've recently used with great success. Rather than shoot with both cameras, I used the T4 and would follow-up with another test of the Epic if the T4 results were better this time.
The second test of the T4 resulted in *much* better photos. Every shot was sharp and well exposed. Now *this* was what I was expecting. I'm very impressed and feel the results are on par with my Konica Auto S2. The Epic will definitely get another roll of testing now that I know that my first test had some problems. One problem that I encountered is that both cameras tend to automatically favor faster shutter speeds and wider apertures. This results in shallower depth of field which makes focusing more critical. In addition, most lenses are sharper a stop or two down from their maximum. With an automatic camera, you can't compensate for this except with faster film which will hopefully result in a stop or two smaller aperture. If the Epic results are similar to the T4's, you can't go wrong with either camera. I would slightly favor the Epic due to the easier focus lock mechanism, spot metering, and smaller size. The main T4 advantage is due to the periscope viewfinder on top of the camera which allows for easy shooting near the ground or over your head.
Day at the Zoo
After being sick for a week, it was great to get outside and walk around in the fresh air. The family and I went to the Woodland Park Zoo for a few hours. Matthew was armed with an HP Photosmart 720 Digital, my wife had her Fuji F20, and I carried a Pentax ME Super with a 135mm f3.5 lens. It was a warm day in Seattle, so all of the animals seemed to be out and about. The tigers and bears were impressive, but the most spectacular showing came from a peregrine falcon and an owl. One of the raptor curators was out letting the birds fly. The owl captured a mouse, while the falcon dive bombed a fake bird that the curator was swinging from a rope. Here are some pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/kellymjones/WoodlandParkZoo20070217 The 135mm lens worked well, but I think a 200mm or 300mm lens is now on my wish list.
Fuji F20 outdoors
I took my wife's Fuji f20 outdoors for some shots in bright sunshine. I've read some reviews where there is criticism of the f20 due to purple fringing and over exposure. Frankly, I thought my shots of various well lit subject were very good overall. As a comparison, I shot the same shots with my K100D and didn't see much difference in terms of blown highlights. If highlights were blown, they were blown on both cameras. The f20 images were sharpened a bit more than the K100D, but otherwise the images were mostly the same. I was worried that f20 would not perform well in sunny conditions, but that doesn't appear to be the case.

